Day 11

Sydney, NS to Antigonish, NS


From Sydney I headed to Louisbourg. I spent half a day there before heading for Antigonish. On the good advice of Ken and Jean, I opted to use Highway 4 back to the Canso Causeway. Even a section of that highway was really rough... it was undergoing reconstructing and some of the gravel (which could not be avoided) came in fist-sized chunks.

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At the Gathering House, my fellow guests were a young Quebec couple who were cycling around Nova Scotia. This is Jeff and Mireille.
From just outside my upstairs room, you could see Mireille getting her bicycle ready for today's ride.
One of Jeff's spokes had broken during their jaunt along the Cabot Trail. He had to balance the wheel by tightening other spokes. They were hoping to get repairs on this day. I hope they were able to find a cycle shop.
Here is my Hostess and Host, Jean and Ken. At one time, they lived in Manitoba. Jean has a sister in Winnipeg and Ken was an RCMP officer who was once based in Portage La Prairie. They moved back to Ken's home province when Ken retired.
This is a snapshot of the Gathering House's very homey back yard.
This park was right across the street from the B&B.
Before leaving Sydney, I went back to the harbour to get a "day view" of it.
I also wanted a better picture of the violin.
I then left for Louisburg. Although it was a hazy day, it was pleasant enough.
No traffic at or near the fort. After signing in (I had a National Historic Sites and Parks Pass), I got a bus ride out to the fort.
We were greeted by a fisherman's wife. All people at the fort remain "in character" during your stay. The trick is to ask questions as if you were actually still living in the 1700s.
A view through the fisherman's window.
You've got to love the thatched roof.
A view along the shoreline.
At the gate, you're greeted by the guards. French and English guests are greeted separately. We English are not as trusted!
It is absolutely incredible how detailed the reconstruction of the fort is. You would not believe that the buildings were only built in the 1960s.
The reconstruction crew worked from old blueprints from the 1700s which they found in Quebec and also in France. All details were followed.
The guardhouse at the main gates.
The fort walls are very thick.
A view from the stone wall.
A view towards the King's Bastion Barracks.
On the left, Barracks; on the right, a Powder Magazine.
Canons placed along the wall of the Dauphin Demi-Bastion.
Inside the Powder Magazine.
Rear view of Lartigue House.
Lartigue House doubles as the fort's gift store.
Isn't this a gorgeous view?
In the Woodlot, a guide was actually cutting wood. They use the wood for the baking ovens.
Take a peek at the bellows on the left. They actually worked to make the smouldering fire hot again.
See? This was, of course, the Blacksmith in the Artillary Forge.
Then I went next door to the King's Bakery where I bought some bread from the Baker's Assistant who is posed by the well.
This is Duhaget House.
Inside was a multimedia display describing life at the fort. I found the view from the window more interesting.
Even gardens and storehouses were restored.
At the Laundry and Stables, the fort even housed livestock.
BAHHHH!
One of my favourite venues was the Engineer's House.
There was all kinds of gadgetry as well as a woman acting as the Engineer's cook displaying food and spices from the era.
The "priest" was waiting for the engineer in the parlor. From this gentleman I found out that the furnishings, paintings, etc in the restored houses were in fact antiques... thus no flash allowed.
In the Engineer's study, there were old blueprints and more gadgets.
The De la Valliere House and Storehouse.
This beautiful garden was behind the De la Plagne House.
A view of the garden from inside the De la Plagne House.
Inside the De Gannes House, a woman was giving a demonstration of tatting lace.
Intriguing. I think I'd like to learn how to read a lace pattern and make a little lace of my own.
This canopied bed made me feel a bit claustrophobic. According to what I've read, I would be a giant compared to ANY of the people of the era.
Again, a garden, this one behind the De Gannes House.
The Icehouse. I wondered how it would work so I went inside. DARK! And there was a hole dug into the ground in the middle of the structure. I guess they put the ice below ground.
The Guardhouse in front of the King's Bastion Barracks.
Drawbridge leading into the Bastion.
Inside one half of the King's Bastion was the church.
Whoever furnished the church did a remarkable job, right up to the silver wall candelabras.
A view from the rear of the King's Bastion Barracks.
Up on the Ramparts of the Bastion Barracks.
This gentleman played the part of a Metis soldier on the Ramparts. He was able to point out which parts of the original fort still remained... not much, by the way. The British actually brought over demolition experts to totally destroy the fort so that the French could not reclaim it.
The stockyard behind the Bastion had turkeys and pigs as inhabitants.
In the Museum, they had a scale model of what the fort would have looked like in its entirety before its demise.
A beautiful view as I walked back towards the harbour.
These are ruins of the Loppinot House and the Fizel House. They are amongst the few ORIGINAL parts of the fort.
The fort's chickens were unique, just like the fort.
The actors at the fort did not just include adults. This group of children played their parts very well, playing "hide and go seek" for the tourists.
An old-fashioned row boat sitting in front of the Chevalier House (left).
The Military Display included the firing of a canon.

To see how people lived in the 18th century with a "real, live" fort was a terrific experience. I truly enjoyed exploring the streets of this restored fort!

I was on my way to Antigonish! Here I stopped at an RV Park on the Bras D'Or Lake.
Down the road near Chapel Island.
Near/at Richmond.
Lovely green views.
Can you see the lighthouse?
Along the road towards Antigonish.
I got a lively greeting from the Stewarts' dog, Buddy.
His barking brought Pat out from the back of the house to greet me.
Upon's Pat's recommendation, I went to Boyd's Seafood Galley which had great food and an ocean view.
Cribbon's Point Wharf... my view during dinner.
When I got back to the B&B, I joined Pat on the ground level deck. We had a nice conversation about lots of things, education for one. (Pat is also a retired teacher.) I was also able to phone home to my sister, Melanie, who was afraid I hadn't heard of the upcoming hurricane (Bill).

Next Day

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